Car Audio Installation and Wiring Tips
What the Pros Recommend Do-It-Yourself car audio installation requires time and patience, but can yield great results.
Reading Manuals
Read the product’s owner and installation manuals, as well as your vehicle’s owner’s manual before attempting to install any car audio products. This ensures product-specific details and requirements are considered. It also helps to identify additional installation supplies and accessories that may be required to complete the installation.
Other Resources:
• Product's Manufacturer Website – Visit the manufacturer’s website to search for up-to-date product and installation manuals.
• Amazon.com Installation Manuals – Review Installation Manuals on Amazon’s Car Electronics Resource Center for additional tips and guidelines. Find the Amazon.com Install Manuals and Guide library here.
Other Resources:
• Product's Manufacturer Website – Visit the manufacturer’s website to search for up-to-date product and installation manuals.
• Amazon.com Installation Manuals – Review Installation Manuals on Amazon’s Car Electronics Resource Center for additional tips and guidelines. Find the Amazon.com Install Manuals and Guide library here.
Interior Disassembly
Disassembly of some of the vehicle’s interior is necessary during most car audio installations. Keep all hardware in labeled plastic bags or containers that identify where the part was removed and needs to be reinstalled. Store any removed panels in a safe area where it will not get scratched or damaged. To prevent damaging panels, be sure to remove all visible screws and check for hidden screws before attempting to remove a panel.
• Center Dash Panels – Dash panel removal is usually necessary to install an in-dash receiver. Use plastic (non-marring) pry tools to remove panels that are not secured with screws or other threaded hardware. Use low-adhesive painter’s tape on surrounding dash areas to protect these surfaces during dash panel removal.
• Lower Dash Panels – Security system installation commonly requires the removal of lower dash panels (below the steering column) to access wire connections. Use screwdrivers or sockets to remove hardware where needed.
• Door Panels – Door panel removal is sometimes necessary when replacing factory speakers in the doors. Use panel removal tools to gently pry clips around the panel’s perimeter. Use screwdrivers or sockets to remove door pulls and armrests where needed.
• Center Consoles – Center console removal may be necessary in order to remove the center dash panel. Check the area around the gear shift (if present), under the center armrest(s), or inside storage pockets for hidden screws.
• Kick Panels/Door Sill Panels – Kick panels are the panels on either side of the floorboard that protect the area where the driver’s and passenger’s feet are located. Door sill panels are the panels that cover the door step as you enter a car. Kick panels and door sill panels need to be removed when running speaker and amplifier power wiring to the trunk, as well as in some security system installations. Pry the panels carefully and/or remove any hardware with the appropriate screwdriver or socket.
• A-Pillars (windshield trim) – The trim on the left and right side of the windshield (called ‘A-pillar’ trim) require removal when running wires for hard wired radar detector installations, extended range two-way security system receivers, or GPS or satellite radio antennas on trucks.
• B/C/D Pillars – The trim surrounding roof pillars behind the front doors is the B-pillar. If the vehicle is a four-door, the pillar behind the second set of doors is the C-pillar. Large SUVs also have a D-pillar in the rear near the cargo area. These all have surrounding trim that may require removal in overhead (flip-down) video screen installation, rear speaker replacements, or when running wires through the headliner for any reason.
• Seat Belts – Seat belts attached to the B-pillar and floor may need to be removed to run wires or remove the trim panels. Seat belt brackets are usually attached with rugged Torx hardware in T-45, T-47 or T-50 sizes. Use the appropriate size Torx socket to remove.
• Seats – Rear seat removal is often necessary when running amplifier power, signal, and speaker wiring to the trunk or cargo area. When installing an amplifier under the front seats, you will need to remove the front seats. Seats are removed using common sockets to loosen bolts. If unplugging any SRS/Airbag safety systems with yellow loomed/taped wiring, do not turn the ignition key until the seats are reconnected to avoid triggering the SRS/Airbag dash warning light.
• Floor Carpeting – Most automotive carpet is molded to the shape of the vehicle and will maintain that shape, making reinstallation easy if it is completely removed. If installing multiple amplifiers and other products, it is recommended to remove the seats and carpet entirely to make it easy to follow factory wiring paths.
• Center Dash Panels – Dash panel removal is usually necessary to install an in-dash receiver. Use plastic (non-marring) pry tools to remove panels that are not secured with screws or other threaded hardware. Use low-adhesive painter’s tape on surrounding dash areas to protect these surfaces during dash panel removal.
• Lower Dash Panels – Security system installation commonly requires the removal of lower dash panels (below the steering column) to access wire connections. Use screwdrivers or sockets to remove hardware where needed.
• Door Panels – Door panel removal is sometimes necessary when replacing factory speakers in the doors. Use panel removal tools to gently pry clips around the panel’s perimeter. Use screwdrivers or sockets to remove door pulls and armrests where needed.
• Center Consoles – Center console removal may be necessary in order to remove the center dash panel. Check the area around the gear shift (if present), under the center armrest(s), or inside storage pockets for hidden screws.
• Kick Panels/Door Sill Panels – Kick panels are the panels on either side of the floorboard that protect the area where the driver’s and passenger’s feet are located. Door sill panels are the panels that cover the door step as you enter a car. Kick panels and door sill panels need to be removed when running speaker and amplifier power wiring to the trunk, as well as in some security system installations. Pry the panels carefully and/or remove any hardware with the appropriate screwdriver or socket.
• A-Pillars (windshield trim) – The trim on the left and right side of the windshield (called ‘A-pillar’ trim) require removal when running wires for hard wired radar detector installations, extended range two-way security system receivers, or GPS or satellite radio antennas on trucks.
• B/C/D Pillars – The trim surrounding roof pillars behind the front doors is the B-pillar. If the vehicle is a four-door, the pillar behind the second set of doors is the C-pillar. Large SUVs also have a D-pillar in the rear near the cargo area. These all have surrounding trim that may require removal in overhead (flip-down) video screen installation, rear speaker replacements, or when running wires through the headliner for any reason.
• Seat Belts – Seat belts attached to the B-pillar and floor may need to be removed to run wires or remove the trim panels. Seat belt brackets are usually attached with rugged Torx hardware in T-45, T-47 or T-50 sizes. Use the appropriate size Torx socket to remove.
• Seats – Rear seat removal is often necessary when running amplifier power, signal, and speaker wiring to the trunk or cargo area. When installing an amplifier under the front seats, you will need to remove the front seats. Seats are removed using common sockets to loosen bolts. If unplugging any SRS/Airbag safety systems with yellow loomed/taped wiring, do not turn the ignition key until the seats are reconnected to avoid triggering the SRS/Airbag dash warning light.
• Floor Carpeting – Most automotive carpet is molded to the shape of the vehicle and will maintain that shape, making reinstallation easy if it is completely removed. If installing multiple amplifiers and other products, it is recommended to remove the seats and carpet entirely to make it easy to follow factory wiring paths.
Testing Voltage
If a factory wiring harness adapter is not available, installation of an aftermarket receiver requires testing vehicle wiring with a digital multimeter (DMM) for DC voltage in order to correctly connect the new receiver wiring. This often includes testing and identifying wires such as 12 volt constant and accessory (key switched) power, dash lighting illumination and amplifier remote turn-on wiring. DC voltage testing of vehicle wiring also helps identify the cause of a component not operating, such as a blown fuse or bad connection. Always use a DMM to safely and accurately measure DC voltage in the vehicle. Incandescent test lights can damage vehicle electrical systems.
For specific uses of where to use a digital multimeter for voltage testing or online DIY wiring resources to identify specific vehicle wiring issues, review the specific Installation Guide for your product in the Guide Library in Amazon’s Car Electronics Resource Center.
For specific uses of where to use a digital multimeter for voltage testing or online DIY wiring resources to identify specific vehicle wiring issues, review the specific Installation Guide for your product in the Guide Library in Amazon’s Car Electronics Resource Center.
Wiring Tips
Follow these wiring tips to ensure reliable, long-term operation of audio products.
• Soldering – Soldering wire-to-wire connections is the most reliable method for connecting wires in a car because the solder seals the wire from oxygen. Oxygen on exposed copper wiring can cause corrosion through oxidation. Soldered connections also resist the vibration of a vehicle, which can cause other types of connections to loosen over time. Soldering wires requires a soldering iron to heat the wire and electrical solder to bond the connection. In addition, the soldered connection must be insulated with heat shrink tubing or high quality electrical tape to prevent shorting to other wires or bare metal.
• Crimped Connections – Crimped butt connectors are a reliable alternative to soldering. Wires are inserted in either end of the butt connector and crimped with a crimp tool. The metal sleeve inside the insulated butt connector is the mechanical electrical connection for the wires once crimped. The butt connector is the preferred crimp connector because they lay flat when wires are bundled together in a harness, unlike other crimp connectors such as crimp caps, T-taps or Scotch Locks. Avoid using crimped connections in areas that are subject to strong vibrations, such as the engine compartment or near the vehicle frame.
• Use Zip Ties – To keep wires neat and organized, use zip ties every 6 inches along wire routing paths. This keeps bundled wiring from loosening or coming into contact with moving parts.
• Fuse Wires – Use a fuse or circuit breaker any time you connect to vehicle power wiring. Most in-dash receivers, Bluetooth hands-free kits, and amplifier wiring kits include fuses in their wiring harness. Be sure to add the appropriate fuse within 18” of the power connection(s) if a fuse is not included with the product’s wiring harness.
• Use a Grommet – Use a protective plastic or rubber grommet to insulate wires from the sharp edges of firewall or bulkhead holes that they pass through. This keeps the insulation from chafing and shorting on the sharp metal edges.
• Use Wire Loom – Use corrugated split loom tubing to camouflage wiring so that it blends in with factory wiring. For security system installations, any factory-like wiring is an additional layer of security. For other products, factory-like wiring provides a more finished, refined result to match the aesthetics of the car.
For more car audio wiring tips, review the Car Audio Connections Category Guide on Amazon’s Car Electronics Resource Center.
• Soldering – Soldering wire-to-wire connections is the most reliable method for connecting wires in a car because the solder seals the wire from oxygen. Oxygen on exposed copper wiring can cause corrosion through oxidation. Soldered connections also resist the vibration of a vehicle, which can cause other types of connections to loosen over time. Soldering wires requires a soldering iron to heat the wire and electrical solder to bond the connection. In addition, the soldered connection must be insulated with heat shrink tubing or high quality electrical tape to prevent shorting to other wires or bare metal.
• Crimped Connections – Crimped butt connectors are a reliable alternative to soldering. Wires are inserted in either end of the butt connector and crimped with a crimp tool. The metal sleeve inside the insulated butt connector is the mechanical electrical connection for the wires once crimped. The butt connector is the preferred crimp connector because they lay flat when wires are bundled together in a harness, unlike other crimp connectors such as crimp caps, T-taps or Scotch Locks. Avoid using crimped connections in areas that are subject to strong vibrations, such as the engine compartment or near the vehicle frame.
• Use Zip Ties – To keep wires neat and organized, use zip ties every 6 inches along wire routing paths. This keeps bundled wiring from loosening or coming into contact with moving parts.
• Fuse Wires – Use a fuse or circuit breaker any time you connect to vehicle power wiring. Most in-dash receivers, Bluetooth hands-free kits, and amplifier wiring kits include fuses in their wiring harness. Be sure to add the appropriate fuse within 18” of the power connection(s) if a fuse is not included with the product’s wiring harness.
• Use a Grommet – Use a protective plastic or rubber grommet to insulate wires from the sharp edges of firewall or bulkhead holes that they pass through. This keeps the insulation from chafing and shorting on the sharp metal edges.
• Use Wire Loom – Use corrugated split loom tubing to camouflage wiring so that it blends in with factory wiring. For security system installations, any factory-like wiring is an additional layer of security. For other products, factory-like wiring provides a more finished, refined result to match the aesthetics of the car.
For more car audio wiring tips, review the Car Audio Connections Category Guide on Amazon’s Car Electronics Resource Center.
When to Consider Professional Installation
Before attempting any DIY installation, assess your comfort level with the installation of electronics and mechanics of your vehicle.
Consider a professional installer if:
1) You are not comfortable disassembling vehicle interior panels.
2) You do not have a suitable work area available.
3) You do not have the recommended tools for the job.
4) You do not have the necessary installation accessories specific to your vehicle year/make/model.
Many independent retail installation shops welcome jobs with products purchased on Amazon.com. Professional installers can also provide many of the installation accessories you need for jobs that are covered in this guide. Always look for a Mobile Electronics Certified Professional (MECP) installation technician to handle your most challenging installation needs.
Want to purchase installation now? Find an InstallerNet card on Amazon.com that corresponds to your job type.
Consider a professional installer if:
1) You are not comfortable disassembling vehicle interior panels.
2) You do not have a suitable work area available.
3) You do not have the recommended tools for the job.
4) You do not have the necessary installation accessories specific to your vehicle year/make/model.
Many independent retail installation shops welcome jobs with products purchased on Amazon.com. Professional installers can also provide many of the installation accessories you need for jobs that are covered in this guide. Always look for a Mobile Electronics Certified Professional (MECP) installation technician to handle your most challenging installation needs.
Want to purchase installation now? Find an InstallerNet card on Amazon.com that corresponds to your job type.
THANKS: amazon.com